OT: a eulogy to American food
carolynwhite2
carolynwhite2 at aol.com
Wed May 10 18:01:06 UTC 2006
First, Ginger..you are one hell of a star. I will paste things into the
Word files pronto. Thankyou.
But, to while away my commute I am currently immersed in a biography of
one of your turn of the century poets, Edna St Vincent Millay. I was
greatly struck by a rave she wrote about American food to a sniffy
foodie in Paris, and wondered if such comestibles still existed
alongside MacDonalds?
'In your travels, cher Madame, did you ever taste the lobsters that
come from the waters off the coast of my home state, Maine? Broiled or
boiled and served with melted, fresh country butter, they are
unforgettable. Did you have fish chowder, made of haddock, Maine
potatoes, onions, salt pork and rich milk?'
'Were you ever introduced to Boston Baked Beans? I mean the kind baked
in an old-fashioned crock. We cook them slowly and for long hours in
the oven and serve them sometimes with such brown bread that can be
found in no other part of the world. Did you ever have Cherrystones or
Little Necks; and did you ever, by chance, taste a Provincetown clam
pie made of the deep-sea Quahogs and a liberality of olive oil and
garlic, cooked by one of the Portuguese fishermen who had hauled in the
clams himself? Were oyster-crabs and whitebait ever set crisp before
you? Did you taste soft-shell crabs, lightly sauteed, or drink the
juice of a soft-shell clam? I must say I have never met their like over
here. And were you ever a happy member of an old-fashioned clam-bake on
a secluded New England beach?
'Then what of the other American dishes that are seldom to be met with
elsewhere on the gastronomic globe? There's the shad roe and the shad
itself, both broiled; sweet corn and sweet potatoes; pumpkin pie and
deep-dish blueberry pie; diamond-back terrapin done as the Baltimoreans
do it in a rich Madeira stew, or as the Philadelphians do it with egg-
yolks, cream and sweet-butter in a lordly dish? Then there's the
Philadelphia Pepperpot which as tripe in it, and that same city's
surprising mixiture of tripe and oysters. There's the Creole Jambalaya
of New Orleans made with savory rice and shrimps almost as big as your
French ecrivisses.
We have also our native blueberries. And there's our cranberries and
our beach-plums which I used to gather on Cape Cod. We make delicious
preserves from them. Oh there are many other products and dishes native
to states and regions of my country. If you have never tasted them, ma
chere, you cannot in all fairness have judged American cuisine..'
A rather fine defence !
Carolyn
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